I've been gathering chicken bones for a while. Not like I'm about to break some voodoo on a dude or anything but collecting and storing them definitively, with a final nod every time I add another bone to the growing freezer bag, the sort of way that might make a man stop and remark "that looks like a fellow who is planning to brew himself a stock, I dare say." And that man would be right. And also watching me in my kitchen way too often for
comfort.
I've always heard making your own stock is awesome. Well, okay, no. I've heard that
having homemade stock is awesome but the act of making the stuff is always glossed over. "Add chicken bones and stuff to pot," they'd say, "wait." Later, in a totally different part of the magazine I'd run across the word "enjoy" in small type and get a vague whiff of cooking chicken but nothing really exclamatory was ever associated with the process.
Having the stock, that's the exciting bit. So it seems natural that I'd always thought
yes, that is something I want, but never
that is something I want to do. Saving chicken bones was my pathetic effort to overcome the debilitating winter lethargy and force myself to make this thing I'd be glad to have once I'd made it, but just keeping bones in the freezer was never going to work.
This is one of the truths of existence, and probably not just mine: I will go to any length, overcome any hurdle, push through any struggle, to do something I'm enthusiastic about. For something I can't muster some enthusiasm for, a thousand tiny vampires couldn't drag me from the couch. So I could have frozen all the chicken bones in town and I would never have made a stock if I hadn't run across
this post at The Amateur Gourmet last Saturday. Which led me to
this post by Michael Ruhlman which led me all over the place to various blog posts that I can no longer find but they all essentially say one thing, and say it demonstratively and with the enthusiasm I'd been unable to generate myself: just make some damn stock, man.
By the time I'd been adequately convinced on Saturday I didn't have four or five hours to spend, so I started Sunday morning (after I whipped up some whole wheat waffles with
Scharffen Berger Nibby pieces for breakfast, natch) which, of course, stretched into Sunday afternoon before the stock had actually cooled enough to package. Mere minutes before people arrived for our little Super Bowl party I was skimming fat globules and fumbling to seal plastic lids. Now let me condense for you the best thing about this experience: for probably ten hours, our entire house smelled like everything the world has ever loved about chicken soup. Our building was velvety with chickeny goodness and I was the mad engineer at its burbling heart, laughing so hard my uvula jumped and danced like a cartoon cat from the 40s. I take a lot of pleasure in creating this level of culinary agony for people climbing our stairs. It's something like a hobby of mine to make people I don't know hungry. Is it too much information to say that I feel gratified when other people feel empty? Maybe.
Now here comes the really heartbreaking part. The stock tastes... okay. It's all right. It's chickeny, it's not water, but I don't see a wide difference between this and canned stock. I think the problem is that I should have reduced it more: intensified the flavor with heat and a little more salt. But I was frankly terrified of boiling it (apparently this is
the way to get cloudy impure stock) and might have undercooked it instead. I mean, it works. I think it will probably be really good when I actually use it to cook something but for now it's just kind of taking up space in a bunch of these little Rubbermaid containers we picked up at the dollar store.
So until it validates my belief in this being a worthwhile pursuit and reason enough to take up valuable freezer space, at least it looks pretty. That's something.